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Crimea on New Year 2013-2014

By tradition on New Year holidays I and my wife (our young family :D) decided to go to Crimea… We thought a lot how to break this wonderful tradition but this time failed)) I hope next time it will be different and we’ll not get Crimean boulders , but , for example, Bleu!

So, the 29th of december around 11 am we are in Simferopol and the weather is great:) Weather in the first two days were very, very pleased – the air was warm, the sun was shining and the temperature ranged from 15 to 18! You never know what you will get in Crimea, but a day or two to catch true summer is almost always possible.

Brought our stuff to EA*, took pads, poured coffee to thermo mug and “trolleybussed” to Grifon.

Came to the stadium, it was even warmer… Dashka took off her blouse, I hid my jacket, walked in the summer) On the way to the cliffs met Fyodor, who was returning to work… Pfff, what kind of work could be in such a wonderful weather:)

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Finally got to boulders and found our crowd – EA with children. They just climbed Gorbulya 6C+. Dasha quickly climbed it, I also warmed up. Then went on Potolok s solntsem and Davay lechitsa – boulders get out of the big overhang to sloping slab, where you need to roll out and try not to fall, because otherwise you’ll roll up to the river))

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My strong wife did Potolok s solntsem 7A, through some even more hard variant) Kiiiitty 🙂 I climbed for the video Davay lechitsa 7A . On it there is a project – a sit start, which is always wet (For 3 years we had never managed to try it, well, okay, stay for 3 years more…)))

Next we went to Tesla and Enshtein. I wanted to climb there Puzatiy Gnom 7C+. EA also took aim at it, Dashka and guys wanted to try Enshtein.

After about 10 attempts and finding the correct sequence, I climbed Dwarf, and then repeated for the video:) EA worked on crux move, with each attempt he confidently approached the dreamy pinch.
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Dashka climbed Beetle Juice 6C and tried 7A Enshtein. Limewall children were fighting with that boulders too:)

Towards the end we went to Kapitoshka 7C, remembered sequence by Andrei Mikheev and in his first attempt EA did it. I had more problems… The key point – toe-hook of the right leg. When I wore Vapor, I was good at the start of the heel, but toe-hook didn’t work at all… When I changed it to Boostic, I flew at the start of the heel and then there was no more strength to finish.

Thanks for EA’s Solution, with which I did not flew heel and toe-hook sat like a native:) Once I put it, I immediately climbed boulder. As a result we gave 7B+.

The next day we decided to go to Bahchisaray, because we had already mentally and physically full of Grifon, does not inspire=) About 13 we arrived and Dashka was warming up on the Malysh on my advice and then strongly regretted it))) Cheeped ugly route, where nothing can be seen)

I climbed up M&M’s 7b for exercise and remembered on Vechernitsa 7c+, but nothing else because we did not have time… So the day was spent like a rest.

31 in the morning we went to throw things on the Red Stone in Red Rock House, where we later met NY. Then went for a walk to Yalta… First of course to Lilia – it’s such a cool and the most boulder cafe in the world! Tatar cuisine, fresh tortillas… Mmm)

Then we went for a walk sea shore… Sea still was one of objectives of the trip to Crimea, perhaps. Deserted beach, the sound of waves and birds… Rest for your soul:)

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In the evening we returned to the RRH and celebrated NY and then my Birthday. Every year, more and more I’m convincing that I just want to sit quietly, to eat, to drink some wine, to embrace wife, and go to bed)) Maybe I’m the only one, but something tells me that too many people thoughts are about peace and tranquility instead of festive party…)

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January 1. Dashka was a bit illy, so we slept well, up to 12-13 hours, and then went to Gurzuf for a walk. Until that day, I have not been there, and was convinced that there is nothing special to watch… How wrong I was:) Gurzuf – ordinary coastal town, the private sector, five floors houses, and below are cozy shops, streets paved with round pebbles, cafes hidden in the warm light of the lanterns and evening lights, which can be seen above the city…

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January 2. Vorontsovka. District flat grounds, beautiful lines and perfect friction:) Arrived late, about 12 hours until gone to all the shops in which only one could go before the park , it was already about 13… Liked the performance of the security guard who saw us near the gate of Vorontsovka with two pads and already with sparkling eyes asked: “Are you going into the park guys…?” . What actually got hit below the belt by Fyodor: “No, we are actually looking for shop”))) This uncle by no means expected and dejectedly , showed us where is ATB : D

So, we came to Buratino and Boy v kosmosie… Climbed all boulders on Pinocchio, I flashed Fight in space 7A, Dashka climbed in second attempt:) However 7A of it is a strange (rather 6B+/6C), but oh well, anything can happen. Fyodor ground on Pinocchio 6C, chatting, remember in passing Vlad Shevchenko… And then suddenly out of nowhere, appears Vlad with his coach Sergey Temnikov!=) What a surprise!
In fact, we were very glad of such a company. For example, I sincerely hope to drag Vlad to the dark side (bouldering). Well, some of my tries in this way are quietly good:)
Next went together, doing almost everything that was on our way) Fyodor climbed Anger of Boss 7B (I think 7A/7A+), Vlad flashed my last year’s first ascent – Grace of Secretary 7B+, then climbed Pangalaktichesky Gryzloder 7C (I was not able to do one move, so that the next time), Dashka fought with Anger of Boss, but also next time:)

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My first ascent in video from last NY:

Moved on… I and Vlad after 10-15 attempts were able to do fucking Champion of China! I gave it 7C. Vlad gave 7B+. We also tried Pisk Mody 7C – all is real, but roll out is scary) While I’ve only seen one ascent of it – of course EA.
Dashka climbed two traverses 7A and I was very proud for her:)
Towards the end it was getting dark and we went climbing with lanterns on Jumping from the Balcony 7A. I shared sequence to all, but nobody has climbed. Then I and Fyodor about an hour fought with One but a good one 7C… It’s just hard. I looked down and velcro on boostik was torn. So crux toe-hook will not work… But the attempt after attempt… And do not climb. But in the end we have a sequence for the future. Last 3 years I could did start move, so progress is here)))

Around 7 pm got home, where we found a crowd of people from different countries and decided to go to EA to enjoy tranquility. But after standing on the road about half an hour and waiting for the last minibuses from Yalta, we trudged back to the Red Rock House and spent the night there.

Simferopol morning, a rest day, lying on the bed, watching movies, the sun’s rays through a pane of glass and all so lazy lazy lazy… Very soulful company returned from Grifon in evening – Yura, Zhanna, EA, and also Nikitos:) So we spent nice evening together laughing, drinking beer and watching and commenting The Network. It was cool that I really did not want to leave!

However, study calls and 4th in the morning we checked out of Simferopol. First to the Dnepr, and from there I went to Kiev and then to Wroclaw, but it is, definitely, uninteresting story…=)

Thank you all all all those who were there with us and helped to catch a festive mood!=)

Video from journey:

Many thanks for support to my first sponsor – MARSON!

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