Today I’m going to Kalisz for some setting and training with Ben and Kuba in Blokoblisko. Like that gym so much! Hope we’ll make some movies from our fun! Enjoy CLIMBING!=)
Competition in Kalisz was announced a month before, if not earlier… Always wanted to go there, because when the gym was built in this small town, it became known that it is a work of art – the worldwide manufacturing company of climbing walls and holds, including for the World Cups. I say all this about Entre-Prises=) As soon as the first pictures were, I wanted to go there for training. Gym looked not big, but very well thought out, with interesting planes and angles. It was not enough holds placed at that time, so I limited myself to comment on the page of Blokoblisko (name of the gym) that, well, put more holds and then we’ll come to you for some training 🙂
So we waited and waited… We waited and waited… And finally waited on January 25 – the date of the boulderfest Blokoblisko Contest 2014.
Morning , I planned to get up at 7.30 to catch everything, have breakfast and go out, but, as is usually the case, the alarm was turned off by pressing the exact touch screen and I quietly fell asleep on…))) At 8:45, that was when it is necessary must leaving, I was awakened by Dominik call that they are near my adress… ) In a panic I gathered clothes, put some rice in food box, poured water into the bottle and ran as fast as I could)
Go out, nobody was waiting… Well everyone, I think, left without me:) Dominik calls and says they are at a gas station near my house. Phew, not so bad) At the same time calls Peter and says that he is waiting at the bus stop, where I told him to go. And the frost is about -10… Trash))
Well in the end we left took frozen Peter from stop and went to KFC 🙂 Guys ate some fresh chicken, and I was limited to coffee with natural rice – I have such a diet at the moment.
Frost fell to -14-15… It was not possible to stay out) Going by Ostrow-Wielkopolski there was all the grass in the ice, tree branches glisten in the sun, there was also ice… Well at least the road was clean, we flew under 140 kmh=)
About 11.40 arrived in Kalisz, 12 should start our group, but as usual there was a delay, so we could register calmly and wait for the start…
When you come into the building of any plant, already imagine dusty bouldergym with dark walls, not very bright lighting and cold… However, here everything was different.
It was a piece of France in Poland. Room has well light, it’s warm and a lot of free space, reception, large windows, a table for DJ made from the old door) In addition, it was really big, that allowed at the same time easily climbing of about 50-60 people. As I recall, the nice planes and a lot of fine angles… Really high quality and thoughtfully constructed gym.
Registered, saw boulders, warmed up… I wanted to try the sweets from the French routesetting team very much:) Blocks looked interesting, different, unusual. While viewing I got the impression that all were real and quite easy, in practice it was much more interesting:)
Climbing… About 10 easy blocks, 5 medium, 5 were more difficult… And 4 were really difficult!
The first 15 I climbed quickly, rested and climbed another 5. And then the battle for two purple boulderings began, because black ones looked really hard:)
On the 21st I fell 3 times from the top. It was offensively. It was a very technical bouldering, with toe-hooks (which I love), neat and precise movements and dynamic move to the last bad one hold… Unfortunately I didn’t do it, but of course I could and was the closest.
22th boulder went through the roof on the sloping holds and a key hole for two fingers on shoulder. I climbed to bonus on flash and almost got good hold before the top, but had a little bad sequence so no top.
Subsequent attempts did not bring good luck , so I stayed with the result of 20 top and 2 bonuses of 24 blocks. I thought this was quite enough for the final.
And it was so:) Just perfect, with 3 people entered having 21 boulders and three with 20 tops and 2 bonuses.
I knew that in the final it will be fight for attempts, in which I’m pretty good (I will not be modest =)). So had a good rest, good warm up in the isolation zone and JUST DO IT!
To the isolation we were taken for about an hour before the start, it was a room for dancing, there were chairs, lay carpets, there was a large mirror, water for all, bananas and energy bars + music centre! Best zone of isolation in all my climbing career!))) The atmosphere was nice, we chatted and warmed up.
Soon the time came for observation. It was a bit chaotic, but we observed all and praise:) Our first bouldering seemed the most difficult, because of slopy holds, and a lot of crimps…
The second was the dynamic one on Blozone volumes, it seemed easy to flash.
The third one was technically with the transition to pyramid and later jump to the top, it seemed quietly real…
So it came time to start. The formula was international – all pairs climbed every boulder one after other. I climbed in tandem with Olga Niemiec, very positive girl, we encouraged each other and each time leaving, said that this time we’ll top the boulder:) But it was not in that way…
On first boulder I was able to reach bonus at the second attempt, but then I made a mistake and sloppy intercepted to the edge from a bonus to reach following hold, in consequence of which I was opened. This mistake cost me a top. And like it turned out later, that first boulder was the easiest one.
The second block was the most difficult and nobody climbed it, even nobody holded the bonus in right way. You had to dynamically catch the volume placed in a hard angle…
Third, the last bouldering, again was harder than I thought. Once made the transition, I have tried several options to reach bonus from slopy pyramid, but my steps failed.
So, I finished the final with 2 bonuses in some attempts, and found myself on the 2nd place:) Kuba from Warsaw climbed the 1st and 3rd boulders so secured his victory. And Adrian Chmiala from Krakow made a mistake at the first boulder and because of this he lost one attempt, eventually becoming 3rd.
I want to tell many THANKS to routesetters from France, the team Blozone, for the fact that they came to Poland and setted excellent world-class problems! As I later heard, they often also set boulders in Paris for Gigi and Sandoz + on World Cups. All this was possible because of the friendship Polish and French, who invited Entre-Prises and built a wonderful Blokoblisko gym in the small town Kalisz, where absolutely no one expected!
I also want to note my climbing shoes Scarpa Boostic and Scarpa Vapor V, that, despite their condition, fully deserve the highest comfort and abilities. On Boostic I divorced one velcro, but the rubberized toe continues to provide ideal toe-hooks. Vapor V have more tough rubber and allows you to comfortably put your feet on the smallest microtopography. Moreover, despite of no rubber on the toe, they are also excellent for toe-hooks. So I recommend to everyone,
SCARPA! No place too far.
Thanks for great support to MARSON!
And recently I was accepted to the ukrainian SCARPA team! PSYCHED!=)
I have totally no skin but it was a great climbing party!=) Thanks to all who was there very much and waiting for more info and photos…
- Kuba Jodlowski
- Roman Batsenko
- Adrian Chmiala
- Kasia Ekwinska
- Agata Wisniewska
- Paulina Kalandyk