Yesterday we spent a bouldering day in the Czech Republic, Ostaś. There were many people from Katowice, some Czechs and I, Krupa and DżoDżo from Wroclaw:)
I specifically wanted to focus on not very difficult lines which remained me more and more after each trip to Ostaś because could not manage to get to the good weather and friction… And finally succeeded!
First we went to the Future Line – it’s a beautiful overhanging rock with holes for one/two fingers. Original version with edge is 7B+. If go right, it will be 7C+, and the newest bouldering is Pockets of future and has a category 8A+.
After a short warm-up I managed to flash Future Line 7B+ (my first 7B+ flash) and then tried option 7C+, but decided to leave it for another time.
Then went to the classics area with one of world-class line – Monster of Pop 7C. I tried it one year ago in our trip with Nikita and couldn’t do one crux move. The next time this movement also did not work… And now, after 4-5 attempts, I got it:) It’s nice when debts disappear one by one.
Unfortunately stone with boulder Vzieli mi muj sen 7C was wet, so it was unable to do, which was sadly, because even in the first attempt year ago I flashed it to pocket on exit and it was covered by snow…
(Photos by Nikita from our 2013 trip)
The following items were boulders Omerta 8A+ and Don Corleone 7B+, Don Corleone Low 8A+. I flashed 7B+ version of Corleone, but sitting at the start the first movement proved difficult, so I decided to leave it to work for the next time. DżoDżo fell from top of Omerta 8A+ five times, but never got into… Apparently it was not his day:) I tried, but I found it wet, so much did not bother and we went to the next stone…
It was a Troll. A large boulder with multiple lines and combinations, located in the forest. There I wanted to climb the last of that day’s payback – Festival Experymentalnych Kultur 7C+. However, the sequence, which I looked at the video from some Czechs proved unsuitable because of the state of my climbing shoes, and it was well enough psycho – hang upside down with the heel and toe hooked… I did not get. But in compensation, after several attempts, I climbed Troll 7C and remained happy with it:)
I especially enjoyed working on bouldering Kobra Kralovska 8A+ on the same stone. When I saw it the first time, I realized – I will do it. The guys told me that the start was a very difficult, and indeed can not see holds, but I immediately thought it was real for me and fit my style… As I know, it’s done by two people – Martin Stranik FA and Lukasz Dudek. I hope to be as follows:) The first movement is really hard, but very real, just more power and everything goes) Other moves I did.
Day in the forest is always wonderful… Despite the fact how you climbed and what you climbed etc. Thanks for all company and today we are going to Rudawy for some projeeeeeeeekt:)
P.S. Our video from failed trip (weather…) in 2013: