3 of recent comps

Recent three weeks time went pretty fast, I can’t realize that winter is already here and it’s cold for climbing with rope on rocks but good for bouldering.

So below are three comps in which we participated and some photos from.

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BoulderRing II 2014 by Shalagins

Photos in album «BoulderRing II 2014» rbatsenko on Yandex.photos

Continue reading BoulderRing II 2014 by Shalagins

On the injury wave

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Worldcup Innsbruck – motivation +100500!

Ухххх, таких финалов я давно не видел!
Лучшая публика в мире!
Идеальные боулдеринги!
Интересный состав финалистов и…
ИНТРИГА ДО ПОСЛЕДНЕЙ ПОПЫТКИ ФИШХУБЕРА!
Я планировал выступить на этом Кубке Мира, однако пора было возвращаться домой после Omletto Swiss Trip. Выступить хотелось хотя бы чтоб попробовать – как это. Что такое КМ, к чему стремиться… Надеюсь еще удастся реализовать эту цель во французском Laval в конце июня.
А сейчас я получил настрой и прилив мотивации снова тренироваться под соревнования и это самое главное! Мотивация движет всем процессом тренировок – я пообещал себе, что однажды эти тысячи зрителей будут кричать, поддерживая меня. Может в Иннсбруке, на Кубке Мира, а может быть где-нибудь в другом месте… На Чемпионате Мира.
Мечты не так уж далеко – пора превращать их в цели.

Boulder Wars II – 3rd place!

Having had a good rest (but not trainings) after the Cup of Ukraine in bouldering in Kamenets-Podolsky (where I became 6th, but more about that later), I suddenly remembered about the competition Boulder Wars II in the small town Nowy Targ which is almost in the Tatry mountains – on the way from Krakow to Zakopane. It turned out that I even registered to it for about a month ago… Nice, going to win something and have fun:)

From Krakow five of us were driving, cheerful pleasant company – Wojciech Karnaś, Ania Pipińska (Heartbeat), Radecki, Olga Niemiec and I.

Before leaving, I got new jeans and trousers from Ania sponsorship and a hat Heartbeat, so went fully equipped for photos! Jeans and trousers are awesome, nice to feel, free and stylish=)

Also, before the departure from the Dnepropetrovsk, SCARPA presented by Seriki, gave me new climbing shoes Scarpa Instinct on laces, I first put them on that competition and friction was so good and they felt so comfortable that I was surprised how the new climbing shoes could be so perfect:) It was really awesome, they approached me completely – and the heel, toe sat like a native, and tough rubber allow your feet to put on the lowest relief! Generally I feel that with Instinct finally be able to fully realize myself in ascents and projects!

So arrived, we went to the hall… It was small, but spacious enough. Boulders were on the panels for the rope too, so they came out very interesting and technical. Variety of pyramids and reliefs pleasured our eyes – we already wanted to try sweets prepared for us:)

In quali I climbed 14 of the 16 blocks and made two bonuses. On the 15th I have not had enough endurance, fell from top 3-4 times, then came up with the correct sequence, but already was tired. About 10 boulders were on vertical or weak overhanging and positive – very different, and technically interesting, beautiful and just nice! Many thanks for the work done by routesetters – it was worth it!

All our company climbed in fun and we went to eat something as it always is between qualifications and finals:) We sat down in a cozy pizzeria, chatted, laughed, ate, took a left pizza and went to the finals.

Our boulders in the final: the first – interesting jump to good holds and then arm but not elementary moves to the top; second – structures on vertical, very cool, I liked most of all;

The third – strong overhang and slopy pinches, the hardest block, anyone climbed up only to the third hold;

Fourth – like my style, slopers on arms)) , but no… It turned out to get back to training large slopers.

I climbed the first on flash and was close on the second one… It was a chance to redeem on the fourth but power has gone. So, I took a honorable third place:) Quite a result, considering the competition and zero trainings after Kamenets.

In general, the organizers managed to make a very enjoyable holiday bouldering for all participants and a good show for the guests! Excellent music, light in the finals, applauses, great support, quality boulders and good prizes! Better than most of competitions, in which I ever participated. Many thanks to CW Top, Nowy Targ, and see you next year! =)

P.S. Soon there will be more great pictures from Wojciech so I’ll put them here.

SCARPA! No place too far.

Many thanks to my sponsors MARSON and HeartBeat!

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