After some days of hard work I’m able to write something again and I have some motivation for climbing. Feeling which comes to me so rarely these days.
Today it was great saturday with awesome weather and we were in Kobylany for chilling, grilling and some climbing. After that I went to my friends to Mamutowa Cave. After long rest it’s nice to feel some power again and great to realise that my next level is almost near, it’s 8b route.
Plan was more for past year but now I think I have more chances now to rehab myself by doing 8b, 8b+ and 8c together with not so big pause beetween.
I like old routes which were climbed by few people and have interesting moves. It’s great to feel a part of polish climbing history on them!
The process begins…
My motivation is slowly getting back and I like that! Staying psyched for some projects on Polish Jura. Unfortunately it’s not enough time in day for me now to do all I want. But nice to push myself to perform some training… Roooocks are waiting.
Last session in Zimny Dol seemed to be really great. We drove there, went to rocks, weather was perfect and friction was really good.
I flashed Bongo 7B to warm up then we found new sick project and tried moves, it seems like 7C+ or 8A… After some tries on project I flashed Spacer po oblajach 7B+ and gave some tries to Traektoria ruchu 7C+, very really but it was time to go on Krolowa blekitu, Pancerny dosiad and Magica…
Easily I did Krolowa from two sloppy holds to finish. There was only two moves to connect and the most beautiful line in Zimny Dol will be mine.
In first try from sit I managed to catch small crimp but fell from next move to pinch. I felt some discomfort in my finger on left hand after that but didn’t think serious about it.
Next try. I’m closing my fingers on the crimp and ready to do impulse for next move… Than I feel pain, hear crackle of finger and one second later I’m sitting on pads and thinking: “Why now?”
Injury is the worst thing of what can happen. I was in very good shape, I felt comfortable on rocks with rope and on boulders… I had to do my first 8b with rope on that weekend, I have to go to Mello and World Cups in may.
Sad but no way for frustration. It’s time to make more power and train another fingers, unfortunately without climbing but only gym and home.
Hope to return quickly and do much harder things than before:)
Today most of people went to highline meeting to Bedkowska Valley and in Brzoskwinka Valley there was quiet and calm… So I and Wojtas went there to get some satisfaction of climbing routes. This is really beautiful place with small river and forest above, rocks are not very tall so lines are pretty bouldery and this is what I like:)
We got to Water Rock, did some 6b-6c to warm up and Wojtas started to climb Urynoterapia 7c+ onsight… Unfortunately he fell at place where you must know sequence perfectly or have strong psychic and biceps 😀 Then he easily found way to do and went down.
It was my attempt, I almost got the route but fell. We climbed it both on second go:)
Then we decided to try Mieszane uczucia 8a+. Down holds looked wet but when we began to try they worked good. Wojtas put quickdraws and shew me some sequence.
In flash try I got almost under the big sloppy holds, it’s a half way to top so I was surprised. Then second try with not sure sequence and I fell in the same place.
In 3rd try I got my first 8a+ Mieszane uczucia in Brzoskwinka Valley!
Surprised and it’s only beginning of sending Jura’s classics:) I feel that I can do even harder routes but it’s just question of some endurance and getting compatible to rocks. Now I’m living in Krakow so can climb in evening or before university! Life is great=)
Today I had some relax after Bloco Open competition where I came 11. I saved some skin for rocks so today we drove to Sun Rocks in Jura near Krakow and climbed some lite routes. I want to attempt Litografia 5/10 but it was strong cold wind on it so only chill out and adaptation today with Ania and Wojtas:)